We spent two nights in Lucca. We stayed at a modern hotel just outside the walled city. It was a nice property with easy access to the walled city, as well as the more contemporary parts of the Lucca.
Lucca dates back to the Roman Empire. It has remnants of an ancient Roman Wall and foundations (mostly under current buildings or repurposed as a wall in a new building). It also has elements of a Medieval wall but is known know for its Renaissance Wall (actually two 40-foot high walls separated up to 98-feet apart and filled with dirt to the top in between). The top is now planted with trees and is a beautiful biking/walking path. It completely surrounds the old city. We walked about half of it and then bailed in search of gelato.
Lucca dates back to the Roman Empire. It has remnants of an ancient Roman Wall and foundations (mostly under current buildings or repurposed as a wall in a new building). It also has elements of a Medieval wall but is known know for its Renaissance Wall (actually two 40-foot high walls separated up to 98-feet apart and filled with dirt to the top in between). The top is now planted with trees and is a beautiful biking/walking path. It completely surrounds the old city. We walked about half of it and then bailed in search of gelato.
On the left, Lucca at night. On the right, the Torre delle Ore dominates this street. At 164' high, it is the tallest tower in Lucca. The clock was added in 1390, but a new mechanism was installed sometime in the 18th Century. You can climb 204 steps to the top for a supposedly spectacular view. Sadly, we missed our opportunity!
On a walking tour of the walled city, Sarah pointed out Ristorante Giglio as one of Lucca's best restaurants. I was happy to hear this as we had already made reservations to dine there that very evening. My amazing dinner: Roast chicken, roasted root vegetables, and black truffle. So good! It was a lovely romantic evening with my cute husband with great service, great food, and a delightful ambiance.
On our second night in Lucca, we explored the city outside the wall and successfully found our restaurant (and did not get lost once!) We brought new friends from our tour, Donna and KC, to dine with us at Gatta ci Cova, a restaurant suggested by our friend Heidi. The space was delightful—as were the entertaining cat-themed menus. The food was both inventive and delicious. I had an amazing gnocchi. Plus, the company was great.
We bussed from Lucca out to the country to visit a frantoio (a traditional olive oil press). We first learned about the process from one of the coop owners, Elena, and what qualifies an oil to be EVO (extra virgin oil). It is not the first press—there is now only one press. It is low pH (0 to 0.8 acidity) and taste. We all got to try an olive oil tasting (like the experts do). We then enjoyed a delightful farm lunch (where EVO was a key ingredient in most dishes). Elena explained the dishes, how olive oil was used, and helped the travelers practice our still pitiful Italian (except for Louise, a member of our tour, who had been studying Italian).
Our lunch included delicious olives [left], an amazing faro salad (my favorite dish) [center], plus olive oil on toast, mayo/olive oil/chopped olives on toast, and chicken liver on toast [right].
After lunch, we went downstairs to the mill. We saw how the olives are washed, coarsely chopped, stone-ground, and finally pressed into discs. After that, the discs were pressured (3000 bars, no idea how that translates to PSI). The fragrant green-gold olive was extracted and filtered before bottling. Fascinating! Unfortunately, since we were flying with only carry-on luggage, we could not buy any of the delicious oil to take home to Chicago.
After lunch, we went downstairs to the mill. We saw how the olives are washed, coarsely chopped, stone-ground, and finally pressed into discs. After that, the discs were pressured (3000 bars, no idea how that translates to PSI). The fragrant green-gold olive was extracted and filtered before bottling. Fascinating! Unfortunately, since we were flying with only carry-on luggage, we could not buy any of the delicious oil to take home to Chicago.
Pisa
Our guide Sarah had arranged for about half our tour group to travel by van to Pisa for a very brief visit (only about 55 minutes total time in Pisa). Luckily, Pisa is only a half-hour drive from Lucca. We saw the famous Torre (Leaning Tower), got a peek inside the Duomo (mass was in progress so we could only stand in the back, no photos), the Baptistry, and finally the Camposanto (a monumental cemetery). All the buildings in this complex (the Field of Miracles) are clad in white marble and use arches at ground level for architectural unity, an element of Pisan Romanesque style.
The Torre has been leaning since five years after building began in 1163, but it is now stabilized with a lean 15' off vertical.
On the left: Il Duomo and Il Torre. On the right: Il Duomo. This is the main cathedral for Pisa. A medieval building dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, this duomo is a notable example of the architectural style known as Pisan Romanesque.
Battistero di San Giovanni (the Pisa Baptistery of St. John) dates back to 1152 to replace an older baptistery. Designed by Distisalvi, It was completed in 1363.
This building is a mix of styles with the upper sections Gothic, the lower sections Romanesque, and a portal with Byzantine inner jambs! The Baptistery was constructed on the same unstable sand as Il Torre and It Duomo. As a result, the Baptistery leans towards the Duomo.
Every half hour a single staff member sings tones. These sounds linger due to the acoustics to create beautiful harmonies. Such gorgeous sound from a single voice! Watch a YouTube video for a demonstration of the sound.
This building is a mix of styles with the upper sections Gothic, the lower sections Romanesque, and a portal with Byzantine inner jambs! The Baptistery was constructed on the same unstable sand as Il Torre and It Duomo. As a result, the Baptistery leans towards the Duomo.
Every half hour a single staff member sings tones. These sounds linger due to the acoustics to create beautiful harmonies. Such gorgeous sound from a single voice! Watch a YouTube video for a demonstration of the sound.
The Camposanto (monumental cemetery) was built between 1278-1465. Dirt under the grass was allegedly shipped from the Holy Land in the 12th Century.
Left: A view of the dome of the Duomo from inside the Camposanto.
Center: A small closeup of "The Last Judgment," a fresco by Buonamico Buffalmacco.
Right: A Roman statue, relocated into the Camposanto.
Center: A small closeup of "The Last Judgment," a fresco by Buonamico Buffalmacco.
Right: A Roman statue, relocated into the Camposanto.
Welcome Itinerary Padova Vicenza Ravenna Montefalco Assisi San Pietro a Pettine Deruta Orvieto Civita di Bagnoregio Chianciano Terme
Tuscany Siena San Gimignano Florence American Cemetery
Carrara Cinque Terre/Levanto Orta San Guilio
How far did we walk? FAQ Tips for Italian Travel Gelato Arrivederci
Tuscany Siena San Gimignano Florence American Cemetery
Carrara Cinque Terre/Levanto Orta San Guilio
How far did we walk? FAQ Tips for Italian Travel Gelato Arrivederci