We flew into Venice and boarded a bus to Padova (more commonly known in the US as Padua). We took advice from a Rick Steves lecture about European travel and arrived in Italy a day before the official tour starts to help get over some jet lag and so we could see Vicenza (which was not on the official tour we were taking). On our bus, we met another couple (CJ and Brian) who were also on our tour! We were at a different hotel for our first night, so we bid them adieu and went off in search of our lodging. After we checked in, William and I went exploring and found a lovely park (Giardini dell'Arena). A cute cafe there gave William a chance to have a tasty Aperol spritz.
Then, we wandered the rest of the afternoon. We found the ruins of the Arena Romana di Padova, gorgeous side streets, piazza after piazza, and great decorations on buildings. We also found a Duomo, but it is not in my top tier of church buildings.
Then, we wandered the rest of the afternoon. We found the ruins of the Arena Romana di Padova, gorgeous side streets, piazza after piazza, and great decorations on buildings. We also found a Duomo, but it is not in my top tier of church buildings.
Arena Romana di Padova is the remains of a large arena built by Romans in 700 AD. It was as large as a similar arena in Verona (that William and I visited a few years ago). Gladiators battled on the floor of the arena but only a few bits of the wall remain now.
This stunning astronomical clock is the crowning glory of Piazza dei Signori. Embedded in the tower of the impressive Loggia del Capitanio, this may be the oldest clock in the world, or at least in Italy. Three curious aspects:
1) At noon, the hour hand points down instead of up as the dial is divided into 24 rather than 12 sections.
2) There are only 11 Zodiac signs. Libra is missing. Allegedly Jacopo, creator of the clock, omitted it to protest against the cruel rule of the Carraresi family over Padova. But it may have been omitted when a copy of the original was made--the craftsman was upset at not having been paid his expected fee.
3) The clock follows a geocentric model of the Solar System.
Below the clock, the St. Mark's lion (with unfurled wings) symbolizes independence of Venice from Rome.
1) At noon, the hour hand points down instead of up as the dial is divided into 24 rather than 12 sections.
2) There are only 11 Zodiac signs. Libra is missing. Allegedly Jacopo, creator of the clock, omitted it to protest against the cruel rule of the Carraresi family over Padova. But it may have been omitted when a copy of the original was made--the craftsman was upset at not having been paid his expected fee.
3) The clock follows a geocentric model of the Solar System.
Below the clock, the St. Mark's lion (with unfurled wings) symbolizes independence of Venice from Rome.
The following morning, we moved to the tour hotel, Art Hotel al Fagiano, a boutique hotel that also seems like an art gallery. We got directions from the proprietors to the Padova train station and headed to Vicenza (see the separate entry).
After we returned, we met our tour group for the first time at Hotel Al Fagiano. We knew right away we'd lucked out and had managed to join a group of exceptional people. Our guide Sarah oriented us to how the tour would work, answered questions, and had us start to get to know each other. She then led us to a restaurant in the old Jewish quarter and we had an amazing first meal together along with great conversation. It was a lovely start to the tour! |
On the first morning of our "official" tour, our group met our local guide, Cristina. She gave us a guided tour of the Church of the Eremitani, the Scrovegni Chapel, and the University. What a skilled storyteller! She made the history of Padova come alive for all of us.
We first visited the Church of the Eremitani , an Augustinian church. These photos are of frescoes by Andrea Mantegna. Much of his work was destroyed in WWII when the adjacent chapel was bombed. A lot of what's left has been restored from fragments. The black and whites areas are reproductions drawn from photos to show pieces lost during WWII. These frescos were removed from walls and hidden from the Germans. Sadly, not all pieces survived.
Scrovegni Chapel is the home of a collection of amazingly detailed frescoes from 1395 by one of the artists who launched the Renaissance, Giotto di Bondoni (1267-1337). These tell the story of the Virgin Mary and Christ and are visually stunning. There is also a disturbing fresco of the Last Judgement with vivid pictures of hell. Visits are limited to 15 minutes to minimize the impact on the beautiful frescoes.
Palazzo del Bo: After we left Giotto's gorgeous frescoes, Cristina took us to the Palazzo del Bo. Since, 1493, this has been the historical seat of the University of Padua, which now enrolls over 62,000 students. It is home to the School of Law and is one of the oldest and most beautiful academic buildings in the world. We had a guide from the University show us where Galileo Galilei gave his lectures in the Quaranta (The “Hall of the Forty”) and the impressive Aula Magna room classroom. We also saw the Aula di Medicina (where anatomy lectures on medicine were originally given) and where today defense of theses of medical students are held.
Teatro Anatomico di Padova
The Palazzo del Bo houses the first auditorium where, in 1595, Girolamo Fabrici of Acquapendente began the first dissection of human corpses in an academic setting to study anatomy by. Our only view of the auditorium was from below the bottom. We stood on a platform where bodies were raised up into the chamber. I included a photo of a model of the anatomy theatre to show the size. Dissections were done of people executed for crimes in cold months (formaldehyde was not yet invented). But the smell was apparently nauseating. Luckily, the stench dissipated
The Palazzo del Bo houses the first auditorium where, in 1595, Girolamo Fabrici of Acquapendente began the first dissection of human corpses in an academic setting to study anatomy by. Our only view of the auditorium was from below the bottom. We stood on a platform where bodies were raised up into the chamber. I included a photo of a model of the anatomy theatre to show the size. Dissections were done of people executed for crimes in cold months (formaldehyde was not yet invented). But the smell was apparently nauseating. Luckily, the stench dissipated
At the end of our morning, Sarah treated the group to a spritz in Padova and tramezzini (delicious sandwiches). We had a free afternoon and spent much of the day enjoying gelato, some gorgeous cathedrals (no photos inside for two of them), the university botanic gardens, and an enormous elliptical piazza filled with sculptures.
William enjoyed a Campari spritz in the afternoon at a cafe by the piazza. Padova claims to have invented the Aperol spritz, but he wanted to try the more bitter Campari version.
William enjoyed a Campari spritz in the afternoon at a cafe by the piazza. Padova claims to have invented the Aperol spritz, but he wanted to try the more bitter Campari version.
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio is a pilgrimage site and burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). Construction began in 1231 or 1232 (depending on one's sources) and incorporates Eastern Byzantine domes, a Romanesque/ Gothic brick design, and Renaissance art. In the Cappella delle Reliquie, the relics of St. Anthony reside.
The Cappella del Santo houses Anthony’s tomb where the faithful seek intercession in curing illness and in recovering lost objects.
The Cappella del Santo houses Anthony’s tomb where the faithful seek intercession in curing illness and in recovering lost objects.
We also visited the Orto Botanico di Padova, a botanical garden in Padua, in the northeastern part of Italy. Founded in 1545 by the Venetian Republic, it's the world's oldest academic botanical garden still in its original location. It includes a large collection of medicinal plants (part of the original purpose for this garden).
We had a great dinner for our last night in Padova at Ristorante Belle Parti. We were treated to an amuse-bouche of marinated salmon. For appetizers, William had codfish cream and a white-pearl corn crispy waffle with shavings of fresh white truffles, while I had Imperial prawns with a black squid ink couscous. For my main course, I had paccheri (a tube pasta) and crab with a pumpkin sauce, cubes of pumpkin and other vegetables, while William had the house specialty, spaghetti with shrimp, black pepper, and Casio cheese, and more white truffle shavings.
This was our first taste this trip of white truffles (which were weighed, then shaved at the table onto the dish, and then reweighed in order to know how much to charge us for this delicacy). This was all paired with delicious breads and Parmesan crisps. For dessert, we had complimentary meringue cookies with panna acida (like creme fraiche). We were quite satisfied and very full.
This was our first taste this trip of white truffles (which were weighed, then shaved at the table onto the dish, and then reweighed in order to know how much to charge us for this delicacy). This was all paired with delicious breads and Parmesan crisps. For dessert, we had complimentary meringue cookies with panna acida (like creme fraiche). We were quite satisfied and very full.
Welcome Itinerary Vicenza Ravenna Montefalco Assisi San Pietro a Pettine
Deruta Orvieto Civita di Bagnoregio Chianciano Terme Tuscany
Siena San Gimignano Florence American Cemetery
Lucca Carrara Cinque Terre/Levanto Orta San Guilio
How far did we walk? FAQ Tips for Italian Travel Gelato Arrivederci
Deruta Orvieto Civita di Bagnoregio Chianciano Terme Tuscany
Siena San Gimignano Florence American Cemetery
Lucca Carrara Cinque Terre/Levanto Orta San Guilio
How far did we walk? FAQ Tips for Italian Travel Gelato Arrivederci